| A couple of shots of the holding tank under the V-berth. Had to drill holes then cut out between. Then dig out the excess foam. I found puddles of water in the foam. Laid in hatch tabs to reinstall the cutout board. |
| After installation I used the spray in foam (in the can) to hold the tank in place. I put cut up plastic bags over and around the tank to keep the foam from sticking to the tank. |
| Ran the plumbing through the bulkhead from under the V-berth, behind the head, through another bulkhead, under the solon seat to the Y-valve, out to the deck fitting and the through-hull fitting just under the seat. |
| Used a hole saw thru the deck and shelf. Here's where one finds out if their core is wet. See that chain plate just aft of the hose. That's where it'll come in if it's not sealed. Mine was a little wet but not black. Ran a fan thru it for a couple days. Then sealed it with epoxy after it was dry |
| This is where it seems to fit the best. |
| The vent went up the side of the hull from under the V-berth and out, a couple inches under the rub rail. |
| The hardest part was getting all those hoses connected. Used real hot water and K-Y jelly to get'm over the barbs. But it was well worth it. The thing you have to remember it not to leave ANY sewage in there for more then a week. It'll impregnate the hoses and start to smell. Before putting the boat away I flush it out 2-3 times (at a pump station) then fill it full of water with a tank treatment Then pump it out down a drain. I rigged my overboard thru hull with an internal pipe thread to hook up a hose. Any questions, would be glad to help! |
| Since this is basically an inland waters boat. I routed everything into the tank and it can either be pumped out by hand thru the overboard-thru hull or sucked out thru the deck fitting via the Y valve direction. This picture in from under the Port -Fwd solon seat. I also cut my seat board into three sections for easy access to each division |
| Yeah! It's raw water. Aft (left) of the commode you'll see a hose running down thru the deck. I cut a large 6" hole in the box under the commode and a 1-1/2" thru the hull for the thruhull fitting and a ball valve. Then put a two piece cover over the 6" hole around the inlet hose. It draws the water from the thruhull, thru the commode, into the tank. From there I can pump it overboard or take it to a pump out station. The Y vale determines which direction it goes. And when I fill the holding tank with flush water (rinse) I run it down thru the pump out fitting..........._/) |
| One more thing before the subject comes up. Each state has its regulations about OBD. Some states do not allow ANY OBD!!!! Here in WA Treated OBD are only restricted in lakes, marinas and other closed harbors. The USCG has a list for each state, which tells those laws, which I'll post at a later time. Meanwhile here is an article, posted below, that might be of interest with some more good info. |
| Go to the site way below and down load (pfd) the Ref. guide to state boating laws- 6th Edition. Go to page 29 and it's a list of rules for each state. Go here Too! http://www.uscgboating.org/safety/fed_reqs/equ_sanitation.htm |
| Here is a front view of a dolly I built from an old small boat trailer . It fits perfectly under the boat and piggy backs on the main trailer. The front tube slides inside the main dolly and locks in place with a pin. It's 20' when extended out. And it weights around 80 lbs. I added an extra ball on top of the main trailer to attach the tongue and to lock it so it doesn't get ripped off. This boat takes about 4-1/2 feet of water to get it to float. |
| I put an extra cross brace across the back and the wheels set right into it. To remove it , I first disconnect it from the ball and pull the extension pin and pull the extension out, then re-pin it. Then go around to the back and lift the wheels up of the trailer and slide it out . I have a towing ball on the front of my truck so I disconnect the trailer and turn the truck around. It's much easier to SEE and GUIDE |
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- One day last year while sailing in a stiff breeze, I heard a cracking sound come from the rudder. Thus this project. I'd like to thank all the good people at the http://bbs.trailersailor.com/forums/clipper/index.cgi , The Clipper Marine owners club for their help. Thanks also to all those who have given time to Sisu, my 1974 Clipper 26. Thanks to President McGrath for the use of the digital camera. We started by gluing 2 halves of a 4x8x3/4 inch marine plywood together. We used West System 105 resin and 206 fast hardener. Here is the original kick up rudder being a template. |
| Here is a close up of the new and old, note the thickness difference. It's going to be over built, can't hurt. |
| Here I'm using my tiny jig saw I got for my 14th birthday to cut the 1.5 inch think plywood. Thanks Mom. |
| Incremental progress: |
| WHOI engineer, Sarah, does the math and figures out where we'll have to shape it. Always good to have an engineer on hand. |
Neither of us had used a power planer. We went to Sears and bought the floor model for $80. Time to practice.
Sarah figured it out. It was obvious who had the natural ability.
Next, I pretended that Sarah's work was mine...
Sarah finishes the job:
Looking good.
Next was to fill any voids or knots with epoxy/low density fairing filler. More toxic stuff. We let it cure for 12 hours.
For a few moments, it stopped raining outside. Mary-Louise is sanding the low density fairing material in preparation for the fiberglass. This stuff is very good for filling any voids and sands quite easily.
While MLT did the sanding on the rudder, I made a new table. The old one was wood/yucky formica. Formica stinks, the new one is plain old 3/4" AC plywood with polyurethane. Very Ikea.
After the rudder was sanded, we cut and prepared the fiberglass cloth. MLT is just finishing cutting the cloth and it's ready for the wet out with the toxic epoxy. Time for the masks.
We applied West System 105 Resin and 205 Hardener to this and the fiberglass magically becomes clear. Start in the middle and work toward the edges to remove bubbles. Great stuff, this toxic epoxy. Then we did the other side and the edges. Same drill, you cut the cloth, lay it on dry then apply epoxy over it.
Here is a shot of the rudder once the glass work was done. After this is becomes a epoxy painting job. We applied 4 coats of epoxy on top of the epoxy/glass and lightly sanded between coats. Don't forget to remove the waxy stuff that coats the surface after the epoxy cures. Scotchbright pad and water did the trick. to remove the waxy stuff. Then sand, coat, wait, remove waxy stuff, repeat x 4 .
The final step is to paint and remount the hardware. First, over sized holes will be drilled and then filled with epoxy/406 colloidal silica. Then I'll drill holes
in the hardened epoxy for the hardware bolts. This will prevent the wood from being exposed to water. The bolts will only touch the epoxy and the wood will be sealed. Total cost for materials was about $120. This doesn't include the power planer, which I can use for other things. And we get to keep the experience. Such a deal.
We used the West System books that you can get when you buy the epoxy. The directions are clear and easy to follow.
n7fcf@hctc.com